As the summer sun intensifies, so does the debate around skincare actives – especially when it comes to retinol.
Dr Mazin Al-Khafaji, world-renowned dermatologist and founder of Dermatology M, shares his expert insight on why bakuchiol, a plant-derived alternative, is the smarter seasonal choice. With his signature blend of traditional Chinese medicine and clinical precision, he also spotlights Dermatology M’s Bakuchiol Face Oil as a potent, skin-soothing solution that is perfect for this season and beyond.
The luxurious Face Oil (£75) is a 100% natural blend of Chinese herbs known for their rejuvenating properties, designed to absorb quickly and leave skin intensely nourished, plumped, and revitalised. At its core is 1% Bakuchiol, the powerful antioxidant and natural retinol alternative that visibly reduces discolouration, redness, and fine lines – without causing irritation or dryness. It also features Olive Squalane, which reinforces the skin’s moisture barrier for a soft, supple feel, and Organic Rosehip Seed Oil (CO₂ extracted), rich in omegas 6 & 7, vitamins C & E, and beta-carotenes to help plump, firm, and refine texture.
Here’s why Dr Mazin Al-Khafaji believes bakuchiol is the ingredient to trust, and what you need to know before reaching for your usual retinol.
Why is there concern about using Retinol in the summer/in the sun?
“Retinol, a form of vitamin A, significantly increases the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, making it significantly more prone to sunburn and inflammation. In addition, the ingredient itself becomes unstable when exposed to UV light, which reduces its effectiveness and significantly increases its potential for causing irritation to the skin.”
What precautions should you be taking if you use retinol during the summer?
“I would recommend avoiding retinol and opting instead for bakuchiol, a compound derived from Bu Gu Zhi, a traditional Chinese medicinal herb used for centuries in the east. Bakuchiol offers the same skin benefits as retinol, but without the associated sensitivity to sunlight, making it safe for daytime use. Furthermore unlike retinol, it does not degrade when exposed to UV light, ensuring consistent effectiveness even in the sun.”
How does Bakuchiol differ to Retinol specifically during the summer and if you’re directly in the sun?
“Both have significant anti-aging (enhances collagen production and reducing collagen breakdown, so reducing fine lines, smoothing texture, and reducing pigmentation) as well as acne preventing action. However, Retinol increases the skin’s sensitivity to the sun, while bakuchiol does not, making bakuchiol safer for use during periods of sun exposure.
Retinol is unstable when exposed to UV light, which reduces its effectiveness, whereas bakuchiol remains stable in sunlight, so effectiveness is not compromised. For this reason, retinol is not recommended for daytime use, while bakuchiol can be safely applied during the day.
Retinol carries a higher risk of irritation – especially in heat and sun -while bakuchiol is much gentler on the skin.
When it comes to long-term benefits, both are similarly effective in reducing fine lines, blemishes, and the tendency to develop acne.”
Can you use Bakuchiol if you’re going on a tanning holiday? e.g. under direct sunlight for long hours.
“Yes, as it does not interact nor is it unstable when exposed to UV light.”
Can you use Bakuchiol during the day, or just at night?
“It is safe to use both in the morning and at night, and doing so is recommended for optimal results.”
What is retinoid dermatitis and what are the symptoms?
“Retinoid dermatitis is a common skin reaction to topical or systemic retinoids (vitamin A derivatives). It is essentially an irritant contact dermatitis that results from the potent effects of retinoids on the skin barrier and cellular turnover.”
How can you cure retinoid dermatitis?
Avoid further contact with any retinoids. Repaire the skin barrier and reduce inflammation. I suggest using Nourishing Cream or indeed the Bakuchiol rich topicals such as Blemish Rescue Face Cream. Do this 3-4 times per day.
Does using Bakuchiol have side effects equivalent to retinoid dermatitis (a common skin reaction to topical or systemic retinoids, or Vitamin A derivatives)?
“Bakuchiol has very similar benefits to retinoids but without the propensity to develop inflammation of the skin that is a common side effect of retinoids. The benefits include – Reduces fine lines & wrinkles; Stimulates collagen production, improves skin tone & texture, Reduces hyperpigmentation, Anti-acne effects, Antioxidant activity.”
You can read more about Dermatology M and purchase the Bakuchiol Face Oil (£75) right here.
